Using The Tenoning Jig

Step 1: Adjust Blade Height.
First, lay out the tenon on the workpiece. Then butt the workpiece up against the back stop and clamp it in place with the ho/d-down bar. Next, adjust the height of the blade for desired depth of cut (length of tenon).

Step 2: Adjust Back Stop.
Now you can adjust the back stop. To do this, slide the tenoning jig so the back stop is over the blade. Then lower the back stop until it just touches the saw blade at its highest point.

Step 3: Se! Stop for Inside Cut.
To set the out for the inside cheek, slide the platform so the blade aligns with the inside layout line. Then thread the left coupling nut against stop block and tighten the wing nut.

Step 4: Setstop tor Outside Cut.
Now, move the platform so the blade aligns with the layout line for the other cheek. Then adjust the right coupling nut, tighten the wing nut, and make a test cut. To complete the tenon, remove the workpiece and make the shoulder cuts.

Using The Drill Press table

It only takes a few minutes to attach the tilting table to the drill press. But before you do, you need to align the table.
The idea here is to orient the table to an “imaginary” center-line on your drill press, see Step1 and Step3.
After the table is aligned, a corresponding centerline is drawn down the middle of the insert, see Step4. This makes it easy to reposition after raising or lowering the height of the table.
Now all that’s required is to set the table to the desired angle and square the fence to the edge of the top, see Step5.

Step 1: After loosening the table clamp, center the hole in the table on a bit chucked in the drill press. Then retighten the clamp. 

Step 2: Next, set the tilting table on the drill press table and attach it loosely with carriage bolts, washers, and T-knobs.

Step 3: Now gently twist the tilting table until the insert is centered on the column of the drill press.
Then tighten the knobs.

Step 4: After adjusting the height of the metal drill press table, simply line the bit up with a centerline drawn on the insert.

Step 5: To avoid drilling compound angle ho/es, square the fence to the edge ofthe table before tightening the clamps.

Locking the fence on the top of the table helps hold the workpiece in place when drilling angled holes.

 When drilling long pieces, the table can be turned 90°.
To prevent the workpiece from sliding, clamp it to the fence.

When the insert gets chewed up after drilling many holes, just remove the old insert and screw on a new one.


Shop-Build Clamps

No matter how many clamps you have, there’s always a project that requires a few more. But rather than buy more clamps, I decided to build my own.
One is a fast-action clamp for light jobs, see top photo. The other is a bar clamp designed for gluing up wide panels, see bottom photo.