Using The Tenoning Jig

Step 1: Adjust Blade Height.

First, lay out the tenon on the workpiece. Then butt the workpiece up against the back stop and clamp it in place with the ho/d-down bar. Next, adjust the height of the blade for desired depth of cut (length of tenon).

Step 2: Adjust Back Stop.

Now you can adjust the back stop. To do this, slide the tenoning jig so the back stop is over the blade. Then lower the back stop until it just touches the saw blade at its highest point.

Step 3: Se! Stop for Inside Cut.

To set the out for the inside cheek, slide the platform so the blade aligns with the inside layout line. Then thread the left coupling nut against stop block and tighten the wing nut.

Step 4: Setstop tor Outside Cut.

Now, move the platform so the blade aligns with the layout line for the other cheek. Then adjust the right coupling nut, tighten the wing nut, and make a test cut. To complete the tenon, remove the workpiece and make the shoulder cuts.

TABLE-SAW TENONING JIG

Using The Drill Press table

It only takes a few minutes to attach the tilting table to the drill press. But before you do, you need to align the table.

The idea here is to orient the table to an “imaginary” center-line on your drill press, see Step1 and Step3.

After the table is aligned, a corresponding centerline is drawn down the middle of the insert, see Step4. This makes it easy to reposition after raising or lowering the height of the table.

Now all that’s required is to set the table to the desired angle and square the fence to the edge of the top, see Step5.

Step 1: After loosening the table clamp, center the hole in the table on a bit chucked in the drill press. Then retighten the clamp. 

Step 2: Next, set the tilting table on the drill press table and attach it loosely with carriage bolts, washers, and T-knobs.

Step 3: Now gently twist the tilting table until the insert is centered on the column of the drill press.

Then tighten the knobs.

Step 4: After adjusting the height of the metal drill press table, simply line the bit up with a centerline drawn on the insert.

Step 5: To avoid drilling compound angle ho/es, square the fence to the edge ofthe table before tightening the clamps.

Locking the fence on the top of the table helps hold the workpiece in place when drilling angled holes.

 When drilling long pieces, the table can be turned 90°.

To prevent the workpiece from sliding, clamp it to the fence.

When the insert gets chewed up after drilling many holes, just remove the old insert and screw on a new one.

TILTING DRILL PRESS TABLE

Shop-Build Clamps

 

No matter how many clamps you have, there’s always a project that requires a few more. But rather than buy more clamps, I decided to build my own.

One is a fast-action clamp for light jobs, see top photo. The other is a bar clamp designed for gluing up wide panels, see bottom photo.

BAR CLAMP

The bar clamp has three main parts: a bar, a fixed clamp head, and an adjustable clamp head.

BAR. The bar consists of two rails (A), see Fig.1. The length of these rails (minus the length of the two clamp heads) determines the useful length of the clamp. I cut the rails 42" long to get a useful length of 36".

GROOVES. After the rails are cut to length, a groove is cut along the inside face of each rail, see Fig.1b. The grooves create a channel for a metal strap that’s used to adjust the clamp. 

ASSEMBLE BAR. Now the bar can be assembled by gluing two small spacer blocks (B) between the rails, see Fig.1.

Also, a large fixed head block (C) is glued between the rails at one end. However, before gluing this block between the rails, drill a hole to allow a threaded rod (which is added later) to pass through, see Fig.2.

ADD SlDES. To strengthen the fixed head block, I added two 3/4"- thick side pieces (D). Then bevel the top outside corner to relieve the sharp edges.

CLAMP MECHANISM

After completing the fixed clamp head, the next step is to add the clamp hardware.

STEEL S'TRAP. What makes this clamp Work is a 36" length of perforated (rigid) metal strap, see Fig.1. It’s sold in home centers and used to brace walls in house construction.

THREAD  ROD. The strap is attached to a threaded rod. To do this, grind a “flat” on the rod and then drill holes in both pieces, see Fig.3. I used 6d nails to fasten the strap to the rod, see Fig.3a.

INSTALL ASSEMBLY. Now the clamp mechanism can be installed. Just slide the rod into the open end of the bar so the strap follows the grooves in the rails. Then pass the rod through the hole in the fixed head, refer to Fig.1a.

Next, slip on a Washer and thread a plastic wing nut on the rod. (Or you can make your own wing nut, see box.) By tightening the nut, the strap slides through the grooves. That’s where the adjustable clump head comes in.

ADJUSTABLE HEAD. Like the fixed head, it’s built up by gluing a center block (E) between two side pieces (F), see Fig.4. The center block is cut wider (taller) than the side pieces so it fits down between the rails.

SCREWS. After the glue dries, two roundhead screws are installed in the bottom of the center block. The heads of the screws drop into the holes in the metal strap. Then as the strap slides in the grooves, the adjustable head draws tight against a workpiece.

To adjust the clamp for a different size panel, just lit the screws into another set of holes. Note: Be sure to locate the screws to match the center points of the holes in the strap, see Fig.4a.

Here again I beveled the top corner of the adjustable head. Then rout or sand a chamfer on the outside edges of the bar and both clamp heads.

FINISH. Finally brush on a couple coats of polyurethane.

A wide strip of masking tape keeps the bar and the strap free of glue.

FAST-ACTION CLAMP