Vacuum Hose Bracket







The drum sander on my drill press works great for sanding curves — but it produces a lot of dust. If you don't have a dust collection system, here's a handy clamp you can make that will allow you to attach the hose from a shop vacuum to your drill press table.


The bracket consists of two parts: a keyhole-shaped yoke, and a metal hose clamp that secures the yoke to the column of the drill press (see drawings). These parts are held together with a carriage bolt and wing nut. The bolt passes through a hole in the hose clamp and into another hole in the end of the yoke.


To allow you to tilt the yoke to the desired angle without loosening the wing nut, the hole in the metal clamp is slightly larger than the square shoulder of the bolt. And to provide clearance for the wing nut, there’s a rectangular opening in the yoke. Finally, the large hole in the yoke is sized to accept the hose from the shop vacuum.

Tool Shelf




Keeping power tools organized and within easy reach in my shop used to be a hassle. They were usually scattered around the shop or in a messy pile on my bench. To solve these problems, I built a handy shelf. Besides providing storage, this tool shelf solves another nagging problem as well — it keeps the power cords from getting tangled up like spaghetti. Each power cord fits in a separate compartment directly below the tool, as you can see in the photo.


These compartments are formed by a number of dividers that are sandwiched between a top and bottom, as shown in the drawing at right. The location of the dividers is determined by the amount of space each tool requires.

Shop-Made Drawer Pulls





I’ve built several storage cabinets with a number of drawers to help organize small pieces of hardware and other items. The problem was I didn't want to buy a separate pull for each drawer. Plus, I wanted an easy way to know exactly what was inside without having to open the drawer. To solve both these problems, I made drawer pulls that double as label holders, as you can see in the photo at right.


Each pull begins as a scrap “two-by” that’s cut to the desired length, as you can see in Figure 1. (My pulls were 2" long). But to form the recess for the label safely, it’s best to use extra-wide pieces.


The recess is made in two steps. Start by routing a shallow groove in the edge of the workpiece, as shown in Figure 1. Then, to create slots that "trap" the label, use a bandsaw to cut two thin kerfs in the corners of the groove (Figure 2 and detail at lower right). To complete each pull, just rip off a narrow strip. Then screw it in place.


Scribing a Parallel Line






One way to scribe a parallel line around a workpiece is to trace the workpiece with a compass. But if the compass isn't held perpendicular to the edge of the workpiece or the points of the compass are set too close together, the scribe line may not end up parallel all the way around the workpiece, as you can see in detail 'a.'


The best way I've found to ensure a parallel line around a workpiece is to use a "posterboard scribe," like the one shown in the main drawing and detail 'b.' The scribe is just a small piece of posterboard with a hole punched in it for the tip of a pencil. Just punch or position the hole the distance you want the line from the workpiece.


By using posterboard instead of a compass, there's a much larger pivot point for making contact with the edge of the workpiece, which results in a more uniform line around the workpiece.


PVC Dust Collector Port



Recently when building my own router table and fence, I found that an ordinary 3" to 1½" PVC reducer works great as a dust collector port. The advantage is it connects easily to a standard shop vacuum with an inexpensive 2" adapter.

As you can see in the drawing, the larger 3" side of the reducer is mitered at a 45° in both directions. I did this at my bandsaw by tilting the table to 45° for the first cut. Then return the table to 90° for the second cut.

To attach the port to the fence I used some small #4 x 1¼" Fh woodscrews. I simply drilled through the fence and into the reducer.






Multi-Purpose Sawhorses









I bet you've got a pair of old sawhorses in your shop or garage. Here's a couple of quick modifications you can make to them so that they're even more versatile.


My sawhorses get used mostly for "rough" work, but they also make a great finishing stand. I simply added some removable pads to the top of my sawhorses. These "two-by" pads are wrapped with carpet so they won't scratch the surface of a project, see photo at right. And to hold the pads in place, there are dowels on the bottom that fit into holes drilled in the tops of the horses, see drawing below.


Another quick modification you can make is to add a simple L-shaped bracket to the side of each sawhorse. As you can see in the photo here, these brackets help to hold sheets of plywood so I can cut them down to a more manageable size. Because the plywood is held vertically, I don't have to stretch to cut all the way across the sheet.


I also use the L-brackets and an old piece of plywood as a backer board when I need to spray a project with a coat of paint or finish.



More Leverage on Clamps








Sometimes I have a hard time getting a good grip on the small handles of my clamps, which makes it difficult to tighten them. Here's a simple solution for getting more leverage.


Drill a 3/8"-dia. hole in the handle and slip a short (6") length of dowel through the hole, as shown in the drawing below. The dowel allows me to get a better grip when I really need to tighten it.


Leg Leveler







Most shop floors are uneven. So whenever I build a shop-made tool stand, I allow for some handy leg levelers. (They add about 2" to the height of the stand.)


The thing that’s unusual about this leveler is the rubber tip on the bottom. This keeps the stand from “walking” across the shop floor shop if there’s any vibration produced by the tool.


The rubber tip is nothing more than the pad from the bottom end of a crutch. (I picked them up at a local hardware store for about 75 cents apiece.)
The crutch tip fits over a dowel that has a hole drilled in it to accept a carriage bolt, as you can see in the drawing at right.


Note: To provide clearance for the bolt as you adjust the leveler, you’ll need to drill a deep shank hole for the T-nut, as shown in the Cross Section drawing at right.


The only thing to keep in mind when using the leveler is the nut has to be tight. This keeps the dowel from spinning as you adjust the leveler.


Knock-Down Work Support




When cutting sheet goods or assembling a large project, an extra work surface sure comes in handy. Problem is, I just don't have enough room in my shop to keep an extra table as a permanent fixture.


Instead, I use a temporary work surface that I can take apart in seconds. The key to the quick knock down is a pair of metal joist hangers that I attach to each of my sawhorses, see photo. Joist hangers are available at most home centers.


The hangers act as "pockets" that hold a couple of 2x4 stretchers, as shown in the drawing below.
Fitting the ends of the stretchers down into the joist hangers creates a large, sturdy work support.


To keep the stretchers from accidentally slipping out, I use a locking pin in each hanger. The pin is simply a bolt that I pass through a hole in the joist hanger, see detail a. below. A nut on the end of each bolt holds it in place. To fit the stretcher over the bolt and nut, all you need to do is drill a pair of counterbores near the end of each stretcher.



Flattening Waterstones




It's hard to beat the fast-cutting action of a waterstone for sharpening chisels and other tools. The price you pay, however, is periodic maintenance. Sanding screens are a great way to flatten a waterstone. But what can you do when you're in a hurry and don't want to deal
with the mess of using a screen and water? 


Here's a quick, easy way to flatten a waterstone in a pinch. Find a cement block (or even a step) that's relatively flat. Then sprinkle water on the rough face of the block and scrub the stone back and forth a few times. You'll get a passable cutting edge in no time.



Dust Bag Hold-Up




Reattaching the bag on my dust collector is a job that takes three hands. It's nearly impossible to hold the bag around the flange of the collector while attaching the metal strap that holds it in place.


To make the job easier, I simply fished a piece of elastic waistband through the hem of the dust bag using a safety pin, like in Fig.1. (Elastic waistband can be purchased at most fabric supply stores.)


After gathering the hem of the bag around the elastic, I tied the ends of the waistband together, as in Fig.2.


You can see how easy it is to secure the strap around the bag in Fig.3.




Drill Press I-Beam





Drilling holes in small pieces can be difficult on a drill press. If you try to hold them with your hand, they want to spin when the bit breaks through the back side. To solve this problem, I made an auxiliary table to hold small pieces securely. The table is shaped like an I-beam, with top and bottom pieces that extend out as clamping platforms.


To build the table, start by cutting an identical top and bottom piece from plywood, as shown in the drawing below. A dado blade makes quick work of cutting a groove down the center of both pieces to fit a 2x4. Once that's complete, glue and clamp the pieces together.


Completing the table is just a matter of drilling holes in the top and bottom pieces. This way, you can secure the table to the drill press with carriage bolts and a couple wing nuts. Make sure you bolt it in at least two slots to prevent the table from twisting.


Note: When the top gets chewed up with use, just flip the table over and use the other side.


Drill Press Fence




In the past, I used to just clamp a board to my drill press table whenever I needed a fence. But trying to position the fence was awkward. So I came up with a fence design that is easier to use and incorporates a stop block.


One end of the fence is attached to a plywood base with a carriage bolt and a threaded knob. This allows you to swing the fence in or out. The “free” end of the fence is then secured to the base with a small clamp, see drawing.


The fence is made out of two pieces of 1½"- thick stock. But before gluing them together, I cut a groove and a rabbet along one edge of each piece, see detail ‘a.’ This creates a slot for the stop block and toilet bolt when the two halves of the fence are glued together.


The base is just a piece of ¾"-thick plywood that is mounted to the drill press table with carriage bolts, see detail ‘b.’


The stop block has a tongue that rides in the slot on the fence. To create the tongue, rabbets are cut along the top and bottom edges of the block. (To be safe, you'll want to start with an extra long blank.) Then a hole is drilled through the block to allow for a toilet bolt, washer, and wing nut.


Division Made Easy



Sometimes I need to draw lines on a workpiece that divide it into equal-size parts. To do that quickly and accurately, without a lot of mathematical calculations, I use a simple trick.


Let's say you want to divide a 2 ¾"-wide board into three equal parts. Start by hooking a tape measure over one edge of the board (anywhere along its length). Then angle the tape across the board until an increment that’s easily divisible by three aligns with the opposite edge of the board (3" in this case). Now mark your board at the 1" and 2" points along the tape. Your board is now divided into three equal parts.


Dividing a Circle


Here's a quick way to divide any size circle into equal parts, without using complicated math. A standard circular saw blade does the calculations for you.

First divide the number of teeth on the saw blade by the number of parts you want to divide the circle into. To make this work, you'll have to pick a number that is an even multiple of the number of teeth on your blade. For example, a 24- tooth blade can be used to divide a circle into 3, 4, 6, 8, or 12 sections.

I wanted my circle divided into six equal parts. I placed the blade on top of my workpiece, making sure the center hole of the blade was aligned with the center of my pattern. Then I counted off groups of six teeth all the way around the blade, making a mark at each interval.

Next I simply removed the blade and drew connecting lines between the marks, leaving my circle divided into six perfectly equal parts.

Disc Flattener



Sanding discs tend to curl up when not in use. I find this a real hassle when trying to place a PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) or hook and loop disc on my sander, especially if I don’t get it on straight the first time. So I came up with a small shop jig that helps keep them flat.

First cut two pieces of wood (6" x 6") and clamp them together. Then using one of the discs as a template, trace two holes opposite from one another. Finally drill 5/16"-dia. holes.

In the base, glue in 3"-long dowels to reach through a stack of discs and into the cap. I oversized the holes in the cap to make sure it fit over the dowels. The weight of the cap keeps the discs flat. Depending on the number of discs, you may need to add extra weight to make sure they stay flat.

Box Fan Filter



I've seen plenty of box fans converted to shop air filters. Most use duct tape or clamps to hold the filter steady. But I've always thought there must be better way to attach the filter that would make it easier to clean or replace the filter when needed.

While shopping at the local home center, I came across some vinyl siding J-channel. (Its normal use is for trimming around doors and windows.) I thought this might be a much better solution for mounting furnace filters to box fans.

The advantage to this design is that it firmly holds a 20" x 20" furnace filter, yet it allows for easy and quick removal of the filter for cleaning or replacement.

Start by removing the plastic grill.Then attach the channel to the grill, using some narrow wood backing strips to screw into. I did this to three edges of the inlet side of the fan, like you see in the top photo. Finally, replace the grill back on the fan.




Band Saw Shelf




When working with small pieces at my band saw, there wasn't a handy place to set them aside. So I mounted a plywood shelf to the arm of the saw.

To provide clearance for the lower door of the saw, I located the shelf up above the arm with a spacer block. To attach the spacer block, I drilled and tapped the cast iron arm to accept a pair of machine screws (see detail).

With the spacer block in place, all that's left to do is to attach the shelf to the block with screws.


Wedged Sanding Block



Here’s a handy sanding block that uses a belt from my portable belt sander. I tighten the belt on the sanding block by tapping in a simple wood wedge, see photo. 

The sanding block is easy to  make — especially since the wedge is cut from the block. The only tricky part is knowing how long a block to start with. 

To find out, slip scraps of wood inside the belt and slide them toward the ends, see Fig. 1. Then measure the inside length of the  belt and add 3/16" for the saw kerfs. After cutting the block to length, just round over the ends to match the curve of the belt. Then cut the wedge on a bandsaw.




Small Parts Clamp



Sometimes I need to grind or sand small bolts, screws, or wood parts for a project. I've tried to use a pair of locking pliers to hold the pieces, but these tend to mar the surface of the part I am working on.

To solve this problem, I made a small-parts clamp out of wood. The soft jaws hold objects firmly without marring them. And since it's made out of wood, it doesn't transfer heat the way metal jaws would.

Here's how it works. A small hardwood wedge fits into the back end of the clamp.
This allows the front jaws of the clamp to “bite” down on the object that is being held. The further the wedge is pushed in, the tighter the grip. A bolt and wing nut hold everything together.

To make the clamp, all you need is a short length of dowel, a scrap of hardwood for the wedge, a bolt and wing nut, and a few washers. Start by drilling the hole for your bolt through the center of the uncut dowel. Then round off one end of the dowel with a disk or  belt sander for the front jaws of the clamp. After cutting the dowel length-wise on a band saw, place the washers between the jaws to act as spacers.

Sanding Table Window Shade


I’ve found that when sanding smaller pieces, the vacuum on my sanding table doesn’t create enough suction to pull the dust through the holes in the table. To solve this problem, I mounted a retracting window shade to one end of my sanding table, see below.

Pulling the shade over the part of the table I’m not using reduces the surface area and increases suction.The suction from the table holds the shade in place. When I’m finished, I just retract the shade.


Sanding Pad


Here’s a clever way to fold a quarter sheet (or half sheet) of sandpaper into a pad that eliminates the usual grit-to-grit contact. What’s nice about this pad is the unexposed surfaces won’t wear as you sand with the outer surface. The pad also works great when sanding a project on the lathe. With four layers of insulation, my fingers don’t get as hot.

To fold the pad, first make a single cut to the center of the sheet. Then follow the steps shown below. To expose a new surface, simply refold the pad.




Sanding Jig for Circles



When I need a circular workpiece for a project, I don't try to get it perfect the first time. Instead, I start by cutting the workpiece to rough shape. Then to make quick work of sanding the edges smooth (and getting the disk perfectly round), I use a simple sanding jig and a disk sander, as shown in the photo at right.   

Jig: Basically, the jig consists of three parts: an MDF base, an adjustable hardwood runner, and a pivot pin made from a dowel (Figure 1). The runner slides in a groove cut in the base. This way, you can adjust the position of the pivot pin for different size disks. The work-piece fits over the pivot pin that's glued into a hole in the runner.

Note: The pivot pin can be any size you need. I have a set of runners with different size pivot pins. But depending on the dowels you use, you may find the fit a little loose. A quick way to solve this problem is to wrap the pivot pin with masking tape until you get a snug fit.

Setup: Using the sanding jig couldn't be much simpler. Start by clamping the base of the jig 1/16" from the face of the disk sander and just to the left of the center, as shown in Figure 1.

Sand Disk: Then just fit the workpiece over the pivot pin and slide the runner forward until the edge contacts the workpiece. At this point, all that's left to do is clamp the runner in place and sand the disk by rotating it clockwise (Figure 2).


Sanding Disc Guard





I have a combination belt/disc sander, and more than once I've nearly caught my sleeve in the rotating disc while trying to sand something on the belt. To prevent this from ever happening, I came up with an idea for a slip-on guard to cover the disc while I'm using the belt.


First I cut an arch shape that goes around the perimeter of the disc from a section of 2x6 (You’ll have to size this piece to fit your sander.) Then I attached a couple of small cleats to each end of the arch. One cleat rests on the disc sander plat-form to position the guard at the right height. The other extends down the side of the platform to keep the guard in place.


Next, I made a cover to hide the disc. I placed the completed arch assembly on a piece of hardboard and traced the profile down to the platform cleats. Then I cut out the cover on a band saw and glued it to the framework. Finally, I sanded the edges of the cover flush with the frame.


Now whenever I use the belt system on my sander, I simply drop the disc guard in place. When using the disc sander, I hang the guard on a nearby wall.